Lament for the Baobabs

In December, 1992, I took this photograph of a massive baobab tree (Adansonia digitata) in Namibia's Kalahari in what was then still known as Eastern Bushmanland.  They called this giant the Tsumkwe Tree because it was located in the administrative settlement of Tsumkwe, right next to the government garage, in fact, and just down the street from where Viv lived during her Peace Corps service.  You can see how the great tree towered over the surrounding vegetation, with clusters of buffalo weaver nests in its branches. 

Five years later, it was gone.

Baobabs can live for many centuries, but when they die they go out in spectacular fashion.  The bark is fibrous and can completely regrow even if the tree is girdled, but the wood is soft and spongy.  An old tree rots from the inside until one day if collapses in a mass of pulp.  That is what happened to the Tsumkwe tree between our first years in Namibia and our return.

It was clear right away that something was wrong with the familiar view at the turn of the road heading toward Viv's old place.  You can see what looks like a shabby heap of rubbish in the second picture where the tree used to be.  We walked closer and were amazed to see what remained of the old tree.

This picture shows its remains, the great strips of bark and yellow pulp.  I knew I needed to take these pictures to compare with the one from before, but I was not a dispassionate recorder for there was a strong sense of loss. 

In 2004, an even grander baobab, the Grootboom or "great tree", likewise collapsed.  I am glad I remember it as it was, so vast that 14 of us linking arms could not span its trunk.  Viv and I spent memorable evenings camped beneath its crenellated trunks and climbing high in its branches, back when there were no tourists yet in Bushmanland and Namibia was a new nation.

The Grootboom lived for over 1,000 years.  May some of its offspring live so long.

Comments

[Troy Mullens]

This is an astounding post.
I learned something new today.

Would you like to hear the stories that were told,
and the adventures that happened,
under that old tree during its lifetime?

Thanks for sharing,
Come and visit,
Troy and Martha